Bonnie Carroll's Life Bites - Chef & Hotel Profile

DELICIOUS CELEBRATION OF LIFE FOR RENOWNED WRITER BARBARA HANSEN AT MARINO RISTORANTE

Remembering Barbara Hansen, A Love Affair of Food, Plates and Friends at Marino Ristorante

(L-R) Proprietor Mario Marino, Cary Hunyh, Jane Hunziker, Barbara Fairchild, Kim Fay, Executive Chef Sal Marino, Jeanne Fratello, Nancy Zaslavsky, Bonnie Carroll, Judi Davidson, and Gerry Furth-Sides at Barbara Hansen Celebration of Life Luncheon at Marino Ristorante.

Barbara Hansen, a legendary chronicler, and champion of LA’s diverse cuisines was a James Beard award winner who was one of the first food writers to bring attention to international cuisines in Los Angeles through her work at the LA Times. She died at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in January 2023. Hansen was 90 years old and still active, writing on her blog and posting recipes on Instagram up until the end of her life.

On June 27, a special tribe of authors, chefs, food writers, and friends were invited guests at Marino Ristorante for a memorial luncheon in honor of the late, great Barbara Hansen, author and renowned food writer who passed away in 2023 in Los Angeles. The historic Hollywood dining venue was a favorite haunt of the talented Barbara Hansen, as well as many of her food writing associates and friends.

Restaurateur Mario Marino and his brother Executive Chef Sal Marino, owners of Marino Ristorante, generously hosted a celebration of life luncheon at their historic Hollywood venue to honor Barbara Hansen, who was a frequent and favorite patron for many years. The two talented brothers prepared a menu that included Hansen’s favorite dishes, paired with Prosecco, and ending with their divine signature Italian ricotta cheese cake: a beloved family recipe. Each course was served on Barbara's beautiful personal china collection, and each guest was given a piece of the china to take home as a keepsake.

If you are curious about Barbara’s favorite Marino dishes take a look at the photos above. They include

snapper crudo, peach & burrata salad, cauliflower mushroom dish, the famous Marino green pea soup, gnocchi mare, John Dory, tagliata, and the signature Marino Italian ricotta cheese cake with berries (top page). The brothers both have gardens, peruse the Farmer’s Market, and are familiar faces each morning at the fish market where they personally select the freshest items for their menus.

Luncheon guests shared their own special memories of the talented Ms. Hansen, who authored many books, was highly praised for her very authentic book on Mexican cooking, and a respected long-time LA Times food section contributor, with a reputation for shining a spotlight on all the new ethnic food scenes in LA. She was a great friend to the foodies and the chefs she featured.

Hansen was born in Hollywood on October 30, 1932. She lived in Hancock Park, in the same house she grew up in, for her entire life. After earning a B.A. from Stanford University, she went on to earn a master’s in journalism at UCLA before joining the Los Angeles Herald-Express, where she was relegated to writing in the women’s section.

According to LA Times columnist Gustavo Arellano “All of us who try to write about food as more than food are the children and grandchildren of Barbara. Even all these decades later, her columns remain better than what most of us in this field can ever hope to achieve.”

Many of the women attending the Celebration of Life Luncheon at Marino Ristorante honestly believed that Barbara Hansen had made the LA Times food section ground zero for Oaxacan food coverage in America and were all close

friends and writing associates. Her first book was a cookbook, California Cooking Style, in 1971 she wrote a

cookbook called Mexican Cookery followed by Taste of Southeast Asia, and in 2013 she wrote a Korean restaurant guide for Los Angeles, commissioned by the Korean Food Foundation in Seoul. Tasting in Loreto with BJH

I spent a week with Barbara in Mexico on assignment just prior to the beginning of the pandemic, and so enjoyed reviewing small Mexican restaurants in Loreto, where we savored authentic food from chefs in little obscure venues, and later included our discoveries in published stories. She was a food star and a woman that we all were inspired by, and she will be greatly missed.

About Marino Ristorante – Ciro ‘Mario’ Marino, father of Mario and Sal established himself in Los Angeles from 1957 until 1983. He opened Mario’s on Melrose, down the street from Paramount Studio. It was then known as the “Unofficial Paramount Studios Commissary.” Marino Ristorante was a favorite of major celebrities, politicians, musicians, and Neapolitan style cuisine foodies. Mario and Sal grew up in the restaurant industry, have owned great venues including Il Grano and La Bottega Marino and are both charming professionals. Marino Ristorante is included among only 31 restaurants in LA awarded “Ospitalila’ Italian seal of authenticity and is located at 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles.

My early adventures at Café des Artistes began over eighteen years ago when I was invited by Puerto Vallarta Tourism to cover the amazing Gourmet International Festival, which is now twenty-seven years old, and was the brainchild of Master Chef Trio Thierry Blouet, Heinz Reize, and Roland Menetrey, all Master Chefs dedicated to the art of fine food and wine. My visits were always filled with true chef excitement, outrageously creative tastes of the best of Puerto Vallarta cuisine and wines, as well as the beautiful ambiance of this charming city by the sea. (Photo: Chefs Heinz Reize, Thierry Blouet, Roland Menetrey)

I was so impressed by the amazing talent of Chef Blouet on my first visit to Gourmet International Festival when I was invited with other food writers to attend a cooking class in Chef Theirry's Cafe des Artistes where an open window kitchen in the lower dining room provided a perfect view of the dishes he and visiting chef Fredich Castan of St. Regis Hotel, Monarch Beach prepared and they were all so outstanding. The chefs were not only happy to answer questions but were simply adorable.

My ongoing visits were many and equally pleasurable, always with a visit from the talented chef during a stunning dinner at Café des Artistes, along with many special events featuring the divine dishes of countless talented local chefs from around the world, paired with fine wines, including introductions to many upcoming wines from Mexico, followed by exciting award ceremonies and sips of fine tequila. (Photo: Chef Heinz, Bonnie Carroll, Thierry Blouet)

The pandemic and travel closures created what seemed like a lifetime without travel, and as I was beginning to give up all hope, just like that, things opened and following a fifteen-day cruise from Sweden to Bergen on the Viking Jupiter I began plans to travel to Puerto Vallarta.

You really cannot imagine my level of happiness to have my reservation confirmed for dinner at Café des Artistes during my visit, or how overjoyed I was not only to experience this gorgeous French/Mexican cuisine once again, but to also spend a short visit with Chef Blouet and speak with his lovely wife.

The special dinner tasting I savored was another highly imaginative and delicious combination of his imaginative and artistic plates, paired with select wines lovingly poured by the sommelier, who had been there for so many years. Never get tired of being so delightfully surprised, followed by huge sighs and smiles from ear to ear.

The dining ambiance experience has been taken to another level at Café des Artistes since I’ve been away with the addition of the Troj Terrace and the Interior Garden dining areas that have both received rave reviews from patrons, including this patron.

Photo: Troj Terrace, Cafe des Artistes

“This is quite a large addition to the restaurant,” said Thierry Blouet, owner and chef, “It has been 20 years since the last renovation, so it was time for big changes.” Thierry was very involved with the remodel and worked with the interior designers, architects, and construction chief, daily. His attention to detail enabled his vision to be realized.

The Interior Garden has very colorful floor tiles, seating for 90 guests and can be reserved for private events, plus it also has floor to ceiling glass panels which can be opened to the garden where the outdoors then merges with the interior. Also, this luscious garden experience can be enhanced by opening a large portion of the roof creating a “Window style” salon enabling guests to dine under the stars. No doubt it is the ultimate elegant space to elevate your entire evening of exquisite food and drink to a dreamy dining adventure.

Below is a photo of the newest menu addition, Baked Soft Cheese from El Tuito, a quaint town 30 miles south of Puerto Vallarta that is known for itspanela. This soft white cheese made of skim milk is prepared with fingers, salted and placed in baskets, hense the name queso de canasta or basket cheese.

The Tasting menu we savored is now six courses and can be adapted to vegetarian requests. Some of the amazing bites enjoyed included a Jerusalem artichoke Mousseline with Asian style sauce, Cacti from Labyrinth, Sea Bass with Buerre Blank and Chipoltle, green risotto with fresh truffle, Habanero Pepper with Passion Fruit Mousse, Foie Gras Creme Brulee with Cassis Sorbet and bread. All were paired with wines of 10 countries, as well as choices of Mexican wines from ale de Guadalupe, Valle de Parras, and upcoming regional wines from Zacatecas and Dolores Hidalgo served by skilled Sommelier Javier.

"To get to know Mexican gastronomy you must visit Cafe des Artistes, restaurant with 32 years of experience created by chef Thierry Blouet. Each space is a true display of art, beyond the beautiful murals, the pieces from the personal collection of the chef and the architecture, the table decorations and succulent dishes..." Oh, and don't miss the dazzling gift shop after dinner.

The staff shared that winter 2023 is already showing signs of being quite busy, and reservations are always recommended to experience this magical venue and can easily be made on the web in advance of your arrival in Puerto Vallarta on the web. Please Note: Addmission is open for children 8 years of age or older only. Dress code is casual elegant, no sleeveless shirts or beachwear please. Pets are not allowed in the restaurant. All photos by Bonnie Carroll unless otherwise indicated.

French cuisine Mexico inspired. More than 32 years being the Gourmet Tradition of #PuertoVallarta. Open Monday to Sunday 5:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

For a delightful Sunday Brunch try the gorgeous Bellini Brunch at El Encanto Hotel in Santa Barbara, California, with bottomless Bellinis or Mimosas with Moet Chandon.

Every bite will delight, served in a beautiful diningroom or on the outside patio, overlooking one of the most beautiful views of the Santa Barbara Riviera. For reservations visit: www.belond.com.