Untitled Document Home
Chef & Hotel Profile
Publisher's Page
Gift Guide
Travel Adventures
Epicurean Events
Health Minded
Spa Baby Secrets
Sips
Book Bites
Culinary Coup
Sense of Style
Kids Kaleidoscope
Tinsletown Tidbits
Wheels
Radio Show & Links
Contact Us


CHEF HOTEL/PROFILE   .   .   .

HAPPY IN HUNGARY

by Bonnie Carroll

It is a good idea whenever possible to arrive a day early when taking a cruise with Viking River Cruises, to avoid any travel complications en-route that might delay your cruise departure or rendezvous time with a traveling friend who may be joining you on the cruise. An early arrival or extending departure provides time to investigate these european cities at the beginning and end of my cruise.

Such was the case with my recent Danube Waltz cruise which departed from Budapest and ended in Passau, Germany. I arrived one day early and began a twenthy-four hour seek and see adventure that included an evening sojourn in the City Center of Budapest, dinner at Kollazs Brasserie & Bar in the Four Seasons Gresham Palace, three thrilling turns on the Budapest Eye and more. The next day it was the Jewish Quarter to tour the Dohany Street Synagogue, shop at the Great Market Hall, visit all the historic sites on Buda Hill, and relax by the river's edge near the finicular to enjoy a glass of Hungarian wine.

My inner child was beyond excited to see my daughter Kathleen waiting for me in the Budapest airport when I arrived on KLM from Amsterdam to begin our eight day adventure through five countries on the Viking River Cruise Ship Valhjalm. My eyes could not seem to see enough as our limo driver hurried through busy traffic to The Prestige Hotel, a very grand looking hotel, located just one block from our ship dock and the Hungarian Academy of Sciences building.

The interior of The Prestige Hotel is what I would call Hungarian royalty meets the Hollywood, with stark white walls & mirrors, a gargantuan crystal chandelier hanging from the atrium above oversized pieces of bright orange modern furniture, including the huge check-in counter. Thankfully, our silver gray twin room with silver accents was more to my liking for a traveling mother/daughter duo, but the refrigerator filled with fantastic Budapest style beverages and snacks got five stars. This hotel houses a Michelin Star Restaurant Costes Downtown (they were given the 5th star of its kind in Budapest) where renowned Portuguese Chef Miguel Rocha Vieira is at the helm. The menu looked outstanding, however, I can only testify to the breakfast buffet in the morning that was extensive, but seemed a bit pricey for juice, pastry and coffee we had.

Our first night dinner was at Kollazs Brasserie & Bar in the Four Seasons Gresham Palace, a culinary experience no visitor to the Hungarian capital should miss. The Kollázs Brasserie & Bar is a contemporary European brasserie in a landmark Budapest location. The Hungarian word for “collage,” Kollázs highlights creative combinations in all aspects of the Magyar dining experience. It is a warm atmosphere where my friend and sommelier Gabor Becker, and the staff are dedicated to providing a memorable experience, and they can be depended upon to do just that. Gresham Palace is considered one of the most exquisite buildings in Pest, and one of the finest examples of Art Nouveau architecture in the world.

The hotel sits graciously at the entrance to the historic Chain Bridge, built to join Buda and Pest in 1849, and its spectacular arcade entrance is awe inspiring, featuring metal and stain glass window designs that are remarkable, exquisite marble floors with etchings that impact visitors with a feeling of space and grace that is overwhelming. Today it is home to a beautiful spa with a pool, featuring signature Omoravicza products containing local healing minerals beneficial to the skin, some very chic shops and a bevy of gorgeous hotel suites for guest enjoyment.

The back story on this hotel with a history is that in 1880 the London Gresham Life Assurance Company bought the Nako House (the original neo-classic palace built in 1827) as its foreign headquarters on the current site, but then in 1903 decided to demolish the Nako House and build a new venue from the ground up as a monument to Sir Thomas Gresham, the sixteenth century financier to Queen Elizabeth I. In its day there were luxury apartments on several floors for the country's elite, including Hungarian Government Minister Count Gyula Andrássy, a close personal friend of Elizabeth Queen of Hungary.

The impressive Kollazs Brasserie menu features appetizers of superb Foie Gras with rhubarb compote and elderflower jelly or encrusted caviar egg served on white asparagus with crème sauce. The veal entree with sweet breads and vegetables created a combination of perfect preparation and picture perfect presentation that was so impressive. A coveted Kollazs specialty is their signature sea bass baked In sea salt (for 2 people), served with a salad and fresh vegetables, that is loved by all. The fish is baked in a one inch thick layer of salt, and then completely cleaned at the table to be served with a warm sauce of light oil and sweet Hungarian peppers. Dessert of fresh red berries, Kirsch and ice cream was a sinful ending.

Our wines were selected for us by Gabor Becker from their exceptional wine list including Grof Buttler, EGRI Chardonnay, 2013, Hungarian and Markrurt Kadarka 2015 Szekszard. Also featured on their extensive wine list are Barta, Late Harvest Furmint, Tokaj, Hungary, 2010 Lenkey, Édes Szamorodni, Tokaj, Hungary, 2007 Oremus, 5 Puttonyos Aszú, Tokaj, Hungary, 2006. For Kollazs reservations: +36 (1) 268-6000.

An after dinner walk seemed to be in the flow so we began walking toward Erzebet Square to the Budapest Eye, a light-filled Ferris wheel with 41 (8 seat) gondola's that seats a total of 332 people when full. The Budapest Eye offers a birds eye view of the Danube, St. Stephen's Basilica and the city center that is enchanting. We truly enjoyed this ten minute (3 turns) ride taking photos and falling in love with the beauty below us. The Ferris wheel is open until 11:00 p.m and tickets cost 6 euro for children, 9 euro for adults, and a discounted 8 euro for seniors.

From the 'Eye' we walked leisurely toward the city center where we discovered Onyx Restaurant, the Two Michelin Star renowned Hungarian restaurant where patrons sit on gilt chairs under crystal chandeliers. This is a place I've read about and longed to visit forever. Now that I know where it is, perhaps on my next visit I will be walking through the elegant doors of this iconic venue, where guests I viewed (through the window) appeared to be extremely pleased with the divine food and service.

Across the courtyard we discovered the Sky Bar, a favorite dance club where younger people have fun dancing while enjoying great views of the city center, including small hotel cafes packed with people eating dinner and chatting over cocktails.

On our return walk toward our hotel we came upon the harbor, dotted with twinkling lights, and could see our Viking Vilhjalm ship docked at the shore waiting for us to embark on our journey the next afternoon.

After a good nights sleep we got an early start taking our bags to check-in on the Vilhjalm, so we could continue our walking tour of Budapest. A visit to the Great Market Hall, where endless stalls filled with meat, produce, wine, gift items were on display is awesome. We stopped at Anna's, the outdoor cafe across the street, to split a delicious sandwich and continued to the Jewish Quarter for a tour of the amazing and beautiful Dohany Street Synagogue. Our guide Elizabeth was so well informed and so kind. This synagogue is second in size only to the synagogue in New York, which is the largest in the world. I was overwhelmed by its size and beauty. With time running out, I was disappointed we were unable to sip a champagne in the thermal baths, but there was no time for healing waters.

Our first night on the Vilhjalm was amazing. It was Kathleen's birthday and the crew went all out with a special cake, and champagne for all, along with a staff song. The dinner and cake with a group of new friends and cruise companions was sensational, and my birthday girl seemed genuinely surprised. I was so happy to be back with my Viking family and slept like a baby in my cozy Viking cabin.

Breakfast on the Viking Ships is always amazing, especially the first day when the staff are calling you by name and trying to get to know your personal preferences. The big beautiful Viking tour bus left on schedule to take us to Buda for a tour of St. Matthias church, where Elizabeth and her Emperior husband were crowned King & Queen of Hungary, Fisherman's Bastion, along with time for shopping and visiting a pastry shop in Buda. The highlight of the ride back to the ship was what they call The Shoes monument on the bank of the Danube. The shoes represent those of Jews and Romi who were shot by the German's when they learned they had lost the war. It is a very touching site.

Dining and relaxing become one on Viking Ships and we were happy to sit on the top deck and watch the harbor activity. That night after dinner the Captain and crew offered Palinka shots (fruit flavored brandy made from fruits grown in the Great Hungarian Plains) for toasting as we cruised the Budapest Harbor, which was lit up like Christmas. It is such a beautiful sight to see, and all the guests were charmed to pass by the monuments and important buildings on both the Buda and Pest sides as they glimmered under the sparkling lights. Oh, did I mention, there was also a musician playing the beautiful Blue Danube Waltz during the memorable tour?

Viking Vihljalm Harbor Cruise Video: youtu.be/V8MM3hfEsEM

During this unforgettable summer night cruise around the Budapest harbor a feeling of sheer gratitude suddenly came over me to realize how lucky I was to share this special time in a city I so love with my daughter on the week of her birthday. I somehow know I will always be like an excited small child to see the Chain Bridge over the Danube, and people sitting in the warmly lit Kollazs enjoying their elegant Magyar dining experience. Mage Tak and Godt Arbeije to Viking Cruise Lines for yet another heart warming experience in Hungary, and I am already waiting with baited breath for my next sweet sojourn in Budapest.


2008
March 08 | April 08 | May 08 | June 08 | July 08 | August 08 | September 08 | October 08 | November 08 | December 08 | January 09 | February 09 | March 09 | April 09 | May 09 | June 09 | July 09 | August 09 | September 09 | October 09 | November 09 | December 09 | January 10 | February 10 | March 10 | March | April 10 | May 10 | June 10 | July 10 | August 10 | September 10 | October 10 | November 10 | December 10 | January 11 | February 11 | March 11 | April 11 | May 11 | June 11 | July 11 | August 11 | September 11 | September | October 11 | November 11 | December 11 | January 12 | February 12 | March 12 | April 12 | May 12 | June 12 | July 12 | August 12 | September 12 | October 12 | November 12 | December 12 | January 13 | March 13 | February 13 | April 13 | May 13 | June 13 | July 13 | August 13 | September 13 | October 13 | November 13 | December 13 | January 14 | February 14 | March 14 | April 14 | May 14 | June 14 | July 14 | August 14 | September 14 | October 14 | November 14 | December 14 | January 15 | February 15 | March 15 | April 15 | May 15 | June 15 | July 15 | August 15 | September 15 | October 15 | November 15 | December 15 | January 16 | February 16 | March 16 | April 16 | May 16 | June 16 | July 16 | August 16 | September 16 | October 16 | November 16 | February 17 | December 16 | March 17 | January 17 | April 17 | May 17 | July 17 | August 17 | June 17 | September 17 | November 17 | October 17 | December 17 | January 18 | February 18 | March 18 | April 18 | May 18 | June 18 | July 18 | August 18 | August | September 18 | October 18 | November 18 | December 18 | January 19 | February 19 | March 19 | April 19 | May 19 | June 19 | July 19 | August 19 | September 19 | October 19 | November 19 | December 19 | January 20 | February 20 | March 20 | April 20 | May 20 | June 20 | July 20 | August 20 | September 20 | October 20 | November 20 | December 20 | January 21 | February 21 | March 21 | April 21 | May 21 | June 21 | July 21 | August 21 | September 21 | October 21 | December 20 | November 21 | December 21 | January 22 | February 22 | April 22 | May 22 | March 22 | June 22 | July 22 | August 22 | September 22 | October 22 | November 22 | December 22 | January 23 | February 23 | March 23 | April 23 | May 23 | June 23 | July 23 | August 23 | September 23 | October 23 | November 23 | December 23 | January 24 | February 24 | February 08 | January 08

2007
December 07
| November 07 | October 07 | September 07 | August 07 | July 07 | June 07 | May 07
April 07
| March 07 | February 07 | January 07

2006
Dember 06
| November 06 | October 06 | September 06 | August 06 | July 06 | June 06 | May 06
April 06 | March 06 | February 06 | January 06

2005
December 05
| November 05 | October 05 | September 05 | August 05 | July 05 | June 05 | May 05
April 05 | March 05 | February 05 | January 05

© 2008 Bonnie Carroll, All Rights Reserved