Bonnie Carroll's Life Bites - Chef & Hotel Profile

Marseille’s Old Port has been the beating heart of the city for centuries. Points of interest include Cathedral La Major, Notre-Dame de la Gardi, Quai des Belges Fish Market, Museum of Old Marseille rooftop café for lunch, Saint Victor’s Abbey, Monument Aux Morts Des Orients, opened in 1927; the memorial to all soldiers from outside of France that fought in WWI, such as Vietnamese, French African and others.

The Vallon des Auffes is a small, picturesque fishing port in Marseille located under a bridge on the Corniche Kennedy, a coastal road; the bridge was built in the 19^th century. It is a very colorful port spot with homes of fisherman, cozy restaurants and clusters of small traditional fishing boats. You can view the inviting entrance to Vallon des Auffes from the Monument Aux Morts Des Orients war memorial bridge entrance. The nearby Saint Marie Lighthouse is also a popular attraction and was built in 1855.

Le Panier Marseillaise, near Rue Caisserie, is a charming historic shopping district with cobblestone streets, colorful buildings and artisan shops on a hill in the center of Marseille, where narrow streets lead to welcoming squares that provide a perfect location to just walk leisurely and view historic sites.

Marseille is France’s oldest city, rich in historic treasures and nestled between the Mediterranean and rocky hills of limestone. Points of interest include two 17^th century fortresses that dominate the charming Vieux Port, or Old Port as it is called, a natural harbor that hosts a variety of watercraft, from sleek elegant yachts to old style fishing vessels. The picturesque quay, or wharf, built on the order of Louis XII, is lined with lovely ships and is a popular venue for romantic walks.

Renowned Fortresses include Fort Saint-Jean built in the 17^th century and are linked by two footbridges to Le Panierand Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations, with panoramic views of the Old Port and Chateau d’lf that is located on an island off the coast, known best for its role in Alexandre Dumas’ the Count of Monte Cristo. The Fortress and former prison on the smallest island were said to be the backdrop for the famous 1929 silent film The Count of Monte Cristo directed by Henri Fescourt, from the 1846 novel by Alexandre Dumas the count of Monte Christo were filmed, and where today tours to examine cells of prisoners and savor stunning views of the historical landmarks have become quite popular.

Cathedral de la Major, Catholic cathedral in Marsielle, also called La Cathedral Sainte Marie Majeure, is an exquisite national monument of France since 1906, built in the Romanesque architecture, Neo-Byzantine architecture by architects Leon Vaudoyer, Henri-Jacques Esperandieu, and Henri Revoil, and opened November 30, 1893. It is the seat of the Archdiocese of Marseille and spectacularly beautiful. Its Intricate mosaics, stunning souring arches, bold artisan details make it an unforgettable reflection of both the past and future of Marseille.

It was made a minor Basilica January 24, 1896, by Pope Leo XIII, and its size compares to St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, designed to hold 3,000 members. It was built on a system of vaults that housed 19^th century warehouses, but today it is home to trendy cafes, bars and restaurants. La Major, as it is called by locals, is open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily.

The food scene in Marseille is incredible, and it is a port city where no one should miss a bowl of their rich and delicious bouillabaisse, made from freshly caught fish and served with fresh French bread. The port area has many restaurants and brasseries to choose from, and one of the best is Paulette Restaurant with a Pier View and a French menu to please, especially for people in a hurry or people who are starving following a long walking tour.

Mussels and French Fries, Bouillabaisse, Salmon Tartare, Caesar Salad, Linguine Burrata, escargot, fish stew, Lemon Tonic, Lemon and berry Tarts reign here, and the mussels were outstanding, as well as the lemon tart. I saw a couple at the next table eating a whole fish with pasta that looked so inviting.

The bouillabaisse is a traditional Provencal fish stew originating from the port of Marseille. A Flavorful and aromatic soup made with a variety of fresh fish, shellfish, vegetables, herbs and spices. Broth often infused with saffron, fennel, and orange zest, giving it a distinctive taste and aroma. Garnished with fresh parsley and enjoyed with crusty bread or a rouille (mayonnaise-based sauce with red pepper and garlic) it is a signature dish worth trying. Shellfish used in this dish include mussels, shrimp, sea bass, and monkfish; some recipes include lobster or other shellfish. If you are not the fish type you will be relieved to know they also serve five different hamburgers, including chicken and avocado with a side of French fries.

Savon de Marseille is an historic French hand soap famous for its Purity. It’s made mostly of olive or palm oil. It’s gentle on the skin and versatile. Due to pH at 9.5, it does not irritate and is smooth and gentle on the skin. The soap is recommended by dermatologists for acne, eczema, psoriasis and fragile sensitive or baby skin. Considered a great stain remover or natural washing powder, this recipe can also be used for washing clothes or be foamed for a nice shaving soap. (See separate story on Things to do on a Morning in Marseille.)

The history of real Marseille soap is tied to world history, and the ideal gift to take home to friends and family would be a bar or gift package of this famous skin friendly soap made with vegetable fats, no coloring, no perfume or additives, only 72% oils and proven to be gentle on allergies and all skin types, even small children.

Early Gaul’s made a paste of beechwood ashes and goat’s tallow that was accepted as having medical virtues. Marseille soap was first recorded by soap makers in the 14^th century and in the early 17^th century demand for this soap became huge in the city due to the war blocking soap imports from Spain. Marseille began also producing soap for the Dutch, German and English buyers at that time, and in 1660 there were seven soap factories making the famous green soap until the destructive impact of WWII.

Today there are still three soap factories located in Marseille making their authentic soap containing 72% vegetable oil, which is stamped on the soaps, made in olive green or white. Not only is it dermatologist recommended but can be used as a disinfectant for small wounds or as a laundry soap, which it has been for years.

I purchased my green soaps at La Savonmerie Marcus Fabre at 148 Ave Paul Bourret, near the harbor following lunch, and I absolutely love how it makes my skin feel. However, time permitting, I recommend visiting one of the three soap factories located in Marseilles to take a tour and have some fun learning about Marseille soap history from the fourteenth century. The factories are listed here: 1. Le Fer a Cheval, 66 Chemen de Sainte Marthe, 13014 Marseille (Shop & factory). 2. Le Serail, 50, Bd Anatele de la Forge, 3014 Marseille (Shop & factory). 3. Savonmerie du Midi, 82, Augestin Roux, 13015 Marseille who have a factory and shop but also have an interesting museum.

I adored my much too short opportunity to savor Marseilles’ rich history, and shop at the Old Port, where charming little shops held a bevy of sweet surprises including French lavender chocolate bars, divine pastries, and some delightful wines to sip while sitting in the sun watching people stroll by. This city is as alive as the ocean that embraces it, and one not to be missed while traveling on the coast of France.